GECKOS
CARING FOR YOUR GECKO
"Underwoodisaurus milli" THICK-TAILED GECKO
"Nephrusrus levis" SMOOTH KNOB-TAILED GECKO
HOUSING & ENVIRONMENT
The size and shape of a Gecko’s enclosure should be determined by which species of gecko is being kept as some are terrestrial (ground dwelling) and others are arboreal (climbers). The recommended minimum sized enclosure for one adult Gecko is 30x30x30cm, however a 60x45x45cm enclosure would be suitable to house one adult Gecko. Hatchling Geckos should be kept in smaller enclosures for the first 6-12 months. It is important that the enclosure has sufficient ventilation as well as a secure, lockable door or lid. The enclosure can be furnished with a hide, artificial plants, timber or rock ornaments and a small water bowl. An absorbent substrate is also important such as a fine-grade reptile safe desert sand or coconut fibre.
HEATING, LIGHTING & MAINTENANCE
Geckos have a very specific set of requirements in regard to their general care, however if all of these elements are provided they thrive in captivity. Providing adequate temperature gradients within a gecko’s enclosure is essential for their health and wellbeing. Most Gecko species require a basking spot maintained between 25-32˚C and a cool end of approximately 18-24˚C. Many species of gecko do not tolerate high temperatures; therefore the enclosure must be regulated with the use of a good quality thermostat and temperatures checked daily with a thermometer. Recommended sources of heat include the use of low wattage incandescent, halogen or ceramic globes with larger glass enclosures. Infrared or purple globes are ideal for nocturnal use. Heat mats and heat cable are also ideal for smaller plastic enclosures. Being nocturnal creatures, Geckos do not require ultraviolet light (UV) like other reptiles do, however it is still important that they have a day/night cycle. A low output (2.0) UV light can be used to light up a geckos enclosure during the day and run on a timer for 10-12 hours. It is important to maintain high standards of cleanliness and hygiene within the gecko’s enclosure. Daily ‘spot checks’ should be carried out, sifting substrate to remove any faeces, shed skin or uneaten food. A full substrate change should be carried out every 2-3 months (depending on what substrate is used) and the enclosure thoroughly cleaned with a reptile-safe disinfectant. Geckos have delicate skin and do not tolerate handling particularly well, so care must be taken when removing them from their enclosure for cleaning. Geckos also require high levels of humidity, and the enclosure should be lightly misted with water at least once every two days.
DIET
Most Australian Geckos are insectivorous, reptiles that naturally consume a wide variety of invertebrates. In captivity they can be fed on a number of commercially available insects such as crickets, woodies, silkworms and mealworms (small amounts). Appropriately sized insects should be fed to the Gecko, as a prey item that is too large can cause blockages in the Gecko’s digestive tract or if not immediately consumed these insects may also chew and damage the Gecko’s fragile skin. As a rule, the size of the insect should be no larger than the space between the lizard’s eyes. Mealworms should be fed sparingly as their exoskeleton can be difficult for Geckos to digest. Hatchling Geckos should be offered food daily and juveniles and adults fed three to four times a week. Offering food in the late afternoon or evening is beneficial as this is when the Geckos become most active. A powdered calcium and multivitamin supplement should be dusted over the insects at least 1-2 times per week to provide the Geckos with an adequate source of calcium and essential vitamins. A small, shallow water dish should always be available and changed daily
HEALTH ISSUES
Calcium Deficiency- Geckos require a calcium and vitamin supplements as part of their diet. If they do not receive adequate amounts of calcium, they may become deficient, leading to health complications.
Dysecdysis (Abnormal Shedding)- Low humidity levels can sometimes result in a Gecko having an ‘incomplete’ shed.
Tail Autotomy (Dropping their tail)- If geckos are not handled gently or handled too frequently, they may drop their tail as a defence mechanism. This causes significant stress to the animal and risk of infection.
LICENSING NSW
Geckos in New South Wales are required to be kept under a reptile keeper’s licence. The licence is easily obtainable by phoning National Parks and Wildlife on (02) 9585 6406 or Service NSW (02) 13 77 88. It is presently law in New South Wales to have a licence. Without it, it is impossible to gain a reptile legally.